MATMATA
The Sahara Desert, with its vast expanse of dunes and barren landscapes, has long captured the imagination of adventurers. Known for its extreme conditions and cultural richness, the desert isn’t particularly associated with wildlife.
In this seemingly inhospitable environment, encountering anything beyond the omnipresent flies or the occasional camel is a rarity. However, in the heart of Mauritania, within the Tagant Plateau, lies an anomaly: the last Nile crocodiles of the Sahara, surviving against all odds in the Guelta of Matmata.
These crocodiles are living remnants of a time when the Sahara was unrecognizable from what it is today. Between 10,000 and 5,000 years ago, the region was lush and green, teeming with rivers, lakes, and an abundance of wildlife. This verdant Sahara, part of the African Humid Period, supported giraffes, hippos, elephants, and crocodiles—species we now associate with Central and Southern Africa.
COORDINATES 17°52'56"N 12°05'39"W
A Shifting Landscape
The Sahara Desert, as we know it today, is a vast, unforgiving expanse of sand and rock, stretching over 9 million square kilometers. However, this arid landscape hides a remarkable story of transformation.
Geological and climatological studies reveal that the Sahara was once a fertile, green expanse filled with life.
This dramatic shift from verdant savanna to desolation is primarily attributed to Earth's axial precession, a cyclical movement of the planet's rotation that occurs roughly every 20,000 years. These shifts influence the monsoonal patterns and can drastically alter the climate of entire regions.
Between 10,000 and 5,000 years ago, during what is known as the African Humid Period, the Sahara was a completely different world. Rainfall was abundant, rivers crisscrossed the land, and vast lakes covered regions that are now barren.
This green Sahara supported an ecosystem similar to today’s savannas of Central and East Africa. Herds of giraffes and zebras roamed freely, and predators like lions stalked their prey. It was a land where hippos wallowed in rivers, and crocodiles thrived in expansive lakes.
photo by Luca Abbate
However, as Earth's axial tilt gradually shifted, so did the climate. Rainfall patterns moved southward, and the once-lush Sahara began drying up. Rivers dwindled, lakes evaporated, and vegetation disappeared, leaving behind an arid wasteland. The dramatic shift forced most of the region’s wildlife to migrate to more hospitable environments, but not all life forms could escape.
The Nile crocodiles that once flourished in the Sahara’s lakes and rivers faced a particularly dire situation. As their watery habitats shrank, most crocodiles perished or moved south. Yet, in rare and isolated pockets where water persisted, a few populations managed to survive. These crocodiles adapted to the changing environment, becoming a living link to the Sahara’s greener past.
Today, the Guelta of Matmata serves as a stark reminder of this transformation. This narrow basin, nestled within the Tagant Plateau, holds one of the last remaining populations of these desert-dwelling crocodiles.
photo by Luca Abbate
The Unique Tagant Region
In the heart of Mauritania lies the Tagant Plateau, a geographical marvel that straddles the line between the Sahara Desert and the Sahel region. This transitional zone is unlike any other part of the country, offering a blend of harsh desert landscapes and life-sustaining oases. It is a rugged and remote area, defined by its sandstone plateaus, steep gorges, and expansive valleys.
The Tagant Plateau stands between 100 and 450 meters above sea level, and its dramatic topography has played a crucial role in preserving life throughout millennia.
The Tagant’s unique geography has allowed it to become a sanctuary in an otherwise inhospitable desert.
The region’s rock formations act as natural water catchments, guiding rainwater into the valleys and gueltas—seasonal pools of water that dot the landscape.
These gueltas have been vital to sustaining the region’s ecosystems and human settlements for thousands of years. While many of these water sources have vanished due to prolonged droughts, a few, like the Guelta of Matmata, still endure, providing a lifeline for the last remnants of the Sahara’s ancient biodiversity.
photo by Luca Abbate
The plateau itself is composed mainly of sandstone, which has weathered over time to create an intricate network of cliffs, canyons, and isolated plateaus. These features make the Tagant both visually striking and ecologically significant.
The deep gorges and valleys act as microhabitats, offering shade and shelter to plants and animals that would otherwise struggle to survive in the scorching heat. Vegetation, although sparse, includes drought-resistant species like acacia trees and date palms, which cluster around the gueltas, creating pockets of green amid the vast desert.
Human history in the Tagant region is just as remarkable as its natural features. For centuries, the area has been home to nomadic herders and sedentary communities, who have adapted to its challenging environment. Ancient rock art found in the region depicts scenes of a bygone era when the Sahara was lush and teeming with wildlife.
These paintings, etched into sandstone cliffs, provide invaluable insights into the lives of early inhabitants and the dramatic environmental changes that have shaped the region.
photo by Luca Abbate
Matmata: A Hidden Sanctuary
Tucked within the rugged cliffs of the Tagant Plateau lies the Guelta of Matmata, a secluded oasis that is a remnant from another era. This natural basin, carved into sandstone by centuries of water flow, is more than just a pool in the desert—it is a refuge, a vital source of life in one of the most unforgiving landscapes on Earth.
What makes Matmata extraordinary is its role as a sanctuary for one of the Sahara’s most surprising inhabitants: the Nile crocodile. These crocodiles, descendants of a population that once thrived across the region, have defied the odds to survive in such an extreme environment.
The guelta provides them with the resources they need: water, shade, and occasional prey, such as small mammals and birds that wander too close to the water's edge. Unlike their larger relatives found in tropical wetlands, these desert crocodiles are smaller and have adapted to long periods of scarcity, a testament to their resilience.
The survival of crocodiles in Matmata is closely tied to the guelta’s unique hydrology. Despite the arid conditions, the basin retains water year-round, thanks to the Tagant’s geology and its sheltered position, which minimizes evaporation. This consistent availability of water supports not only the crocodiles but also a variety of other desert life forms. Birds frequently visit the guelta to drink, and insects thrive in the moist environment, creating a delicate and interconnected ecosystem.
photo by Luca Abbate
The surrounding cliffs and plateaus funnel rainwater into the basin during the rare storms that sweep through the region, replenishing the guelta and sustaining its fragile ecosystem. However, the guelta’s delicate balance is increasingly threatened. Prolonged droughts have made water sources like Matmata even scarcer, raising concerns about the long-term survival of its unique inhabitants.
Nowadays, Matmata isn’t hard to access anymore. Located about 100km from Tidjikja and 20km off of the main road, the site can be reached with a 4x4 and a short 2km hike.
Travelers who venture to this hidden sanctuary are rewarded with an inspiring sight: a glimmering pool of water, surrounded by rocky outcrops and the shadows of cliffs where life clings tenaciously.
photo by Luca Abbate
Survival Against the Odds
The survival of the Nile crocodiles in the Sahara Desert is nothing short of extraordinary.
Unlike their larger relatives in tropical Africa, the crocodiles of Matmata are smaller and have evolved behaviors uniquely suited to their extreme surroundings. One remarkable adaptation is their ability to enter long periods of dormancy during times of scarcity.
When prey becomes scarce, these crocodiles reduce their metabolic rates, conserving energy until conditions improve. This strategy, known as aestivation, allows them to survive extended periods without food, a vital skill in a habitat where sustenance is unpredictable.
The guelta itself plays a critical role in their survival. Matmata’s permanent water source, fed by occasional rain, provides a rare oasis in a region where surface water is virtually nonexistent. Fish carried into the guelta by seasonal floods and the occasional small mammals and birds wandering too close to the water provide the crocodiles with just enough food to persist.
However, these resources are sparse, and competition for them can be fierce. The crocodiles must rely on stealth and patience, traits that have been honed over millennia.
photo by Luca Abbate
Climate change compounds these threats, introducing unprecedented variability to rainfall patterns and causing prolonged droughts. While the guelta has endured for centuries, its future is uncertain. If the water source dries up or becomes too polluted, the crocodiles will have no means of escape. Unlike other populations of Nile crocodiles, which have access to larger, interconnected water systems, these desert-dwelling reptiles are confined to their isolated habitat, making them particularly vulnerable to habitat loss.
Compounding these ecological pressures is the risk of genetic bottlenecking. With only a handful of individuals left in Matmata and other similar gueltas across the Sahara, the genetic diversity of these populations is critically low. This lack of diversity reduces their ability to adapt to new environmental pressures, making them more susceptible to diseases or changes in their already harsh habitat. Over time, this genetic stagnation could lead to their eventual extinction, even without significant environmental changes.
photo by Luca Abbate
photo by Luca Abbate
Fascinating. Never heard of the area or the crocodiles before. Sadly, their ability to adapt may be st and end.
I learned something today thank you
Very interesting, as i am an armchair traveler, many thanks for your wonderful pictures of this extraordinary place,
Loved the entire story, I read every word. I cannot remember the last time that I have enjoyed an article as much as have enjoyed this one. Thank you so much.
Great article. Who knew there are these rare crocodiles in the Saraha – wow! Much appreciate being educated here.
Wonderful article. The geography of the area and the creatures were well described. Thank you.
Very interesting! Thank you.
Many years ago, a comic book episode of ‘Luck of the Legion’ mentioned Crocs in the Sahara Desert. I thought at the time that was fanciful, but Luck’s creator must have known of these isolated reptiles – perhaps having himself been in the Legion.
Hey Donald, thank you for sharing with us this anecdote, Iam sure they did heard about the Saharan crocs. In fact another known place is the Guelta d’Archei in Chad, which we will be able to explore very soon.